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Under the Baobab Tree Under the Baobab Tree: February 2003

Friday, February 14, 2003

Natural History Museum Courtesy of Phelps Dodge

I took a breather today and went over to the National History Museum mineral collection to see if I could find the Phelps Dodge samples that my client told me about.

I found some lovely things from Ajo that are labeled as being from Ajo, and some things from Bisbee that are labeled as being from Bisbee. There is a lovely piece of beautiful copper -- the most attractive piece of copper in the copper box, actually. I identified the green rocks I brought back from Ajo as being either Shattuckite, antlerlite, or something called diospase (?). They have a whole display box of blue/green copper-byproduct rocks. It was very educational.

Most interestingly, they have a whole display of asbestos samples. They have a very pretty piece of tremolite and several chrysotile pieces. The tremolite was almost pure white looking and braided in a stylish fashion. The chrysotile was grayer, but you could definitely see its columnar, crystalline formation. Very cool. And of course, there were thousands of silicates on display.

I think we should take the office on a field trip there. There are a whole bunch of meteorites, gems and rocks I didn't get to see. And a naturally magnetic blob of something. Did you know that if lightning strikes a blob of rock, that rock can become permanently magnetized? You are allowed to touch the magnetized blob they have there, and I spent some time this afternoon throwing paper clips at it.

Monday, February 10, 2003


Etruscans and Fossils in Santa Monica

The day started with our expert accountant picking me up under the giant magnolia tree at the Miramar at 8:30 this morning. Our expert accountant is very fashionable. She drives a brand new Mercedes, she has the stylish black leather Prada jacket, she has useful yet fashionable sunglasses (mine are fashionable but not useful -- they fall off my face all the time), she has red hair and blue eyes. She was wearing Manolo Blahniks. She made me feel very dowdy and uninteresting-looking, pale, lumpy, bland, etc. Her father was Canadian Air Force pilot; her husband builds movie theatres in Australia and New Zealand; they live in Pacific Palisades with their two daughters. She appears to be swimming in money. She is very nice.


The deposition was downtown in one of those LA skycrapers that you see on TV shows like Family Law and LA Law. The conference room we were in had a view right down onto the Staples Center. After the deposition, the expert accountant, our local counsel and I went to lunch. There was a hairdresser's convention going on at the Staples building. You can imagine the people-watching.


After the work day was done, the expert accountant drove me back to the Miramar, where I got into my Pontiac Grand Prix and headed for the new Getty Museum in the Santa Monica hills. This is the famous new museum on top of the hill, designed by Richard Meier. It is WONDERFUL! First, to get there, you have to drive to a subterranean seven story parking garage in a gully and leave your car. Then you stand on a platform surrounded by jacaranda trees, and wait to get on a very slow moving tram that goes up the side of the hill through a grove of trees I later learned were California Pepper Trees. As you get higher, the LA Basin begins to spread out below you. You can see Palos Verdes, downtown, the Hollywood Hills and the ocean. The tram goes very slowly (my brochure says its maximum speed is 10 mph). It's very calming. Everyone starts to get excited about getting to the museum. First no-one is talking; as you go up the chatter begins a little, people who have been there before say to first-timers, "oh it's beautiful, you'll love it, the gardens are just...." People start to say, "I can't wait!" You can see the museum coming -- it's a big white stone structure that looks from afar like a collection of not very attractive apartment buildings -- the kind you might see on the way in from an airport in a European city.


When you arrive, you step out onto a platform of white marble-type stone and everyone scatters over a very large open space, going every which way. One is, at this point, very high up on the mountain. This is called the Arrival Plaza, and the stones you are standing on -- like the rest of the museum -- is travertine which was brought all the way from Northern Italy. The stones contained fossils of fish and other animals if you look closly. The maps all have little conch symbols to indicate the best fossil viewing parts of the exterior walls. The travertine walls are earthquake safe, they say.


There are two parts of the Getty to see -- the inside and the outside. The outside is a series of beautiful gardens cantilevered out over the hills, with amazing views of the whole basin. They are designed to feel like a Mediterranean garden. There is a flowering maze set into a large pool of water. There are sycamore yarwoods (the California version of London plane trees) leading down through a rock garden on a zigzagging trail to a set of six steel bowers -- called steel parasols -- that are over 12 feet tall and which support gigantic amounts of bougainvillea. There is a cactus garden to the south of the museum. There is a forest of New Zealand irises. And there are expanses of golfcourse grass everywhere. These expanses of grass attract hoardes of people who just lie on them in the sun and look out over all of Los Angeles. People are very happy at the Getty. It reminded me of the Campo de Pisa in Italy -- where I once lay in the sun on the grass around the leaning tower for about three hours, doing absolutely nothing, anticipating buying a pizza margherita later on. The only thing missing from the Campo de Getty were dogs -- I don't think dogs are allowed on the trams.


After soaking up the amazing view, I went inside to view the Ancient Art exhibit. I saw a few interesting things. First, I saw a goblet made completely of gold, that was found by some sponge fishers working off the coast of Turkey somewhere. I had never seen a completely gold goblet before. I also saw some terracota sculptures of what the sign were sirens (the ones Oddyseus encountered, to be precise), but these sirens were depicted as women with stork legs. I stood in front of this for a while. I have read the Oddysey, and I have read the Iliad, but somehow I missed the part where we learned that sirens were women with stork legs. I saw a very beautiful object carved by the Etruscans out of a geode. Seing as I bought a geode yesterday at the mineral store, I thought that was nice. After checking out the ancient art, I only had time to cruise at high speed through the 18th century European paintings. I found a fabulous painting by someone I'd never heard of, Lawrence Alma Tadema, who as either Dutch or English (he's desribed in the museum literature as Duthc/English). The painting shows children heading out on May 1 to collect flowers.

Then, it was time to go back outside. Before the museum closed, I bought an orange at the coffee shop and sat out on the gigantic rock piazza and looked out over LA and at my orange. The sky was bright blue. The walls of the Getty were bright white. And my orange was fresh from just down the road in Anaheim (Orange County). I watched airplanes take off from LAX. From that far away, they look like they are going so slowly. Everyone else in the museum came outside about now too, and we all hung over the railings and watched the sun go down. Then, instead of taking the tram back, I walked the .75 miles back to the subterranean parking garage, through the peppertree grove and under the jacarandas.


Now I'm back in my hotel. Santa Monica really is an ocean-side village. The windows of the hotel are streaked with salt spray. Everyone's hair is windswept, the breeze is constant, and the flags on top of the white art deco buildings on Ocean Boulevard never get a chance to relax. You can tell when the sun is coming up because you can't hear the surf as loudly for that brief moment when the temperatures of water and air begin to equalize. You are just as likely to see people in a parking out step out in wetsuits with surf boards as Manolo Blahniks and sequined halter tops.


So once again, I have come to LA and decided that it is beautiful and wonderful. I even like the highways. They are surrounded by beautiful trees and huge piles of plumbago and bougainvillea, and from them you can glimpse vistas of mountains, or the ocean, or the moon behind palm trees, or all three at once. I think the side streets where the houses are seem like oases of wonderful mediterranean coolness and relaxation. I drove up one residential street in Beverly Hills, Hillcrest Road, that went high up into the mountains. The street had lovely lamps lighting it, and the houses all had floodlights in their gardens illuminating the palm trees and the jacarandas and the fig trees. Every house had a view over all of LA. The sky was very dark blue -- not black -- and you could see the royal palms rising very high above the road and the houses, black against the blue sky. You can smell chlorine mixed with sea spray. If you stop to buy pistachios (which I do frequently), they are fresh and were harvested just down the road. Same with oranges. And plums. And cherries. When the sun sets, everyone stops what they are doing and turns to look at it. It is cold enough at night to wrap up in sweaters, but today during the day it was 70 degrees. People can eat all three meals outside all year round. I love it.

The Getty Museum's official website is http://www.getty.edu.

For spectacular pictures of the architecture and grounds, visit http://www.vex.net/~jp/getty.php

For tourist information about the Getty, go to http://www.beachcalifornia.com/getty.html

Sunday, February 09, 2003




Yesterday in America

Yesterday morning I started the day at 6 in the morning struggling to get my wheelie through the snow to my car. DC has helpfully plowed all the snow on my street and in my parking lot into giant mini-mountains that block all access to the road or to any cars. It was still dark out. It was 23 degrees.

I got to Dulles to find that it is Caribbean Cruise season, and so there were thousands of brightly dressed, infrequent travelers, taking up all the space on the people mover and at the Starbucks. They were all headed to Miami and were trading notes on Norwegian versus Royal Caribbean, Cozumel versus Belize, etc.

United took pity on me and upgraded me to first class. The whole country outside my window was covered in snow until after we crossed the Rockies. The Shenendoah Valley looked particularly beautiful. Snow makes all the topography easier to see -- you can see the creases in the lines of mountains heading down towards Roanoke. You can see all the rivers that meander down the valley. The mountains are still covered in trees, but the ground under the trees is white with snow, like looking at a photographic negative. Imagine taking white pieces of paper and crinkling them up like an accordian -- that's what the mountains looked like.

I arrived in LA at 11:30 a.m. and it was brilliantly sunny and 65 degrees out. I rode the bus to the Avis rent-a-car place with a Weather Channel television crew who were driving to San Diego to cover the sunny weather. Seems like an awfully good job (74 and sunny!). I got in my Avis rent-a-car (a red Pontiac Grand Prix) and drove south to Redondo Beach. There was no traffic so I flew down the highway with my windows open, the wind in my ears, and my sunglasses perched on my nose.

In Redondono Beach, I found the apartment in which the associate at our local counsel lives. It looked like a 1950s motor lodge converted into an apartment complex. There was a swimming pool with apartments on three sides. The apartments were two story and dark, with a door and a high, screened window to one side. They were all painted white. The associate was home, watching a Japanese horror movie with English subtitles, in the dark with the curtains closed. I suggested she go outside since it was so beautiful and she was a block from the beach. She said, "oh."

The reason I had to go see this woman is that she had my box of deposition exhibits with her. Once I got the box, I drove clear across town to West Los Angeles, to meet with our forensic accountants. They were both there, in their office, and they had ordered me a water cress salad with parmesan cheese and artichoke hearts. So I ate that and talked about accounting for a little while. Then I went and checked into my hotel -- the Fairmont Miramar in Santa Monica. This hotel is across the street from the beach, and it is one block from the Third Street Promenade that careful readers will recall from my last trip (in fact, that is how I discovered this hotel). The hotel used to be a spa. Greta Garbo lived here and Betty Grable was "discovered" by a movie agent singing in the lobby.

There is a gigantic magnolia tree at the main entrance -- it must be 10 feet thick at the bottom and grows up and out in a beautiful dome.




It's so big that you feel that you are inside when you are under it.


From my room I can see the ocean and the Santa Monica mountains. Below my window is the heated outdoor pool, surrounded by bird of paradise plants, bougainvillea, sea figs, banana trees, and palm trees.

After checking in I went on a three hour walk up the beach. I watched the sun set from the Palisades Park -- the air was crystal clear and the only thing the sun had to light up in the sky were contrails from jets leaving LAX for points west.



On the way back, I hit the Third Street Promenade and found a mineral store having a 30 percent sale. So I bought some beautiful bright blue minerals (I think they are geodes). I also bought a t-shirt (at a different store) that says "Sarah Soda Soda Shop -- Sarasota Florida." I thought it was funny.






Sunday (today) will be spent taking a deposition on accounting issues. What fun.